So, Anne and I spent the weekend in New York with a friend of ours,
Allyson Edwards, and several other of her friends to celebrate Allyson's
birthday.
The fact is, I've only ever been in Manhattan one other time, in May of
2003, when my occasional boss, Tim Brack, had Chet and I up to i.e.
Marketing's backwoods-NJ HQ for a design-and-work meeting and dragged us
into Manhattan one night to meet some of the people from Universal. It
was fun, but I only saw a fraction of it over the course of a few hours.
The flight out
So after work on Friday, I took the Metro down to Reagan National and
caught a Delta Shuttle to La Guardia. National is sixteen zillion times
easier to get to than Dulles–it's a 20-minute Metro ride that drops you
right at the terminal, rather than a 30-minute Metro ride that puts you
at a twice-an-hour shuttle. I'm hoping I can find reasonable flights
home from there in the future because it's just so much easier.
Anyway, I made it in plenty of time for my flight, got on, and found out
that on flights between DC and New York, there is No Standing. As in,
the airplane might as well not have a lavatory because you will not be
allowed to make use of it. And if you try, they will land the plane as
fast as possible and let you speak to some Federal Marshals about how
you're not allowed to stand.
I think if my outrage-ometer weren't so consistently pegged these days
I'd be a lot more pissed-off, or at least snarky, about how police-state
it is to tell people that they can't even use the bathroom without
having to talk to the cops. As it is, I just make sure I don't drink a
lot of water beforehand.
The view flying in, shortly after the sun had set, was truly amazing.
The entry to Manhattan
I got into La Guardia and caught a cab to our hotel, the Doubletree
Times Square.
This was something of a silly ride, as I was alternatively taking down
numbers of the limo that was going to pick me up at the hotel and take
me to the restaurant everyone had already gone to and using my Treo to
try and deal with some AnteSpam issues–our DNS server went down and it
was causing sever mail processing delays.
Times Square does nothing for me–too many people, too fast, too…too.
Edgy only does it for me after I've worked up to it–most of the time,
it's just not interesting. Inside the hotel (which had guards who
wouldn't let you in without a key, which presented an interesting
problem since the reservation was in Anne's name, not mine, etc.) was
calm. I dropped off my stuff, called the aforementioned limo rider and
then went downstairs to wait.
Am I a celebrity?
There is something surreal when a huge limo wallows up to the curb to
pick you, and you alone, up. The limo had a bar–whiskey and vodka, with
a couple of bottles of wine the other participants had brought along
earlier. I passed for the moment, preferring to watch the landscape
drift by, and to notice that the little star-lights in the roof
gradually changed color.
I eventually arrived at Trattoria Sambuca, where the meal had only just
gotten started. It was nice, and I got introduced to the other ten or so
people there, including the two women named Ann (this becomes a source
of amusement during later events). I forgot pretty much all of the new
names immediately, as is my unfortunate wont. I suck, suck, suck at
remembering names. It probably guarantees that I have no future in
politics.
It was a nice meal, done somewhat family-style (since there were so many
people)–I would be willing to eat there again. When everyone was done,
we called back up the limo and took off to drive around until the limo
turned into a pumpkin at midnight.
We stopped once to replenish the wine stores–a Hess Chardonnay and a
Ravenswood Zinfandel (inexpensive and reliable both) and something else
that I forget but was pretty good.
We also stopped to take a picture at Rockefeller Center, which was kind
of fun since I've been reading Live from New York, the oral history of
SNL, most of which takes right there at 30 Rock.
I had occasion to call Chet to ask a question that I had already
forgotten the answer to by the time I hung up (sad, isn't it–a little
wine and the short-term memory goes to shit). It was mostly an excuse to
be able to deliver the amusing line that I was cruising around Manhattan
in a limo full of women.
We made it back to the hotel around midnight and everyone piled in to
sleep off their sulfites.
Shambling to consciousness
We woke up relatively late, and convened in the lobby around 9:30am to
catch the subway to attend the organized bit of the trip, the U.S. Open.
We took the subway out to Flushing Meadows–right next to Shea Stadium
and, in fact, La Guardia–which was a good 40 minute ride. The NY subway
system is probably an order of magnitude bigger than any other I had
direct experience with except possibly the London Underground. It is
also by far the shabbiest. Still, it's not outrageously expensive, and
it's a boatload cheaper than taxis.
And we're at the U.S. Open
We got to the Tennis Center (after a bit of standing on line for bag
checks) and found our way to Arthur Ashe stadium, where we watched Roger
Federer pretty much demolish Fabrice Santoro from the shade at the side
of of the big press box–the seats weren't actually ours, but the shade
was worth it, and we got away with it. ;)
Once that match was over, we ducked out and got something to eat. That
was not cheap, though the food was better than you might have
expected–they had the only Indian fast-food kiosk I've ever seen,
complete with Mango Lassis.
We then went into the general admission part of the Louis Armstrong
stadium, and watched the beginning of Carlos Moya's match against
Olivier Rochus. It began to get intolerably hot (I had, it a fit of
fuckwittedness, not packed shorts, had no sunglasses, and was stubborn
enough not to want to wear a hat), so Anne and I ducked out, found some
shade, drank a lot of water and watched Moya go down on a monitor
outside. I napped a bit.
In all truth, we weren't having a huge amount of fun in the middle
there; it was too hot and uncomfortable. But about 3:45, the sun started
to abate, and we went to watch Agassi play. And that definitely redeemed
the experience.
Agassi just powered his way through Jiri Novak. For a guy who, at 34, is
apparently being accused of being washed up at the beginning of each
season, he certainly seems to be doing OK. This is his 18th U.S. Open,
and I guess he's making up what he doesn't have in raw speed and
endurance with experience and cunning, because he was playing good
tennis.
It wasn't all one big service game, either. There were some long volleys
and hard-won points. It really did make up for having to endure the heat
in the middle of the day. We're already contemplating coming back next
year.
The final game actually had a point when it was advantage Agassi, and he
hit a shot that everyone thought was in–everyone stood up, many started
clapping–and then it was called out. People actually booed the call.
Agassi proceeded to take the next two points with no fuss, as if to
prove a point.
And then, we left.
Dinner in the Village (or three women named Ann (or Anne) and Steve)
No, not that Village, Greenwich
Village.
So, we got back from the Open, and many of the party were going to some
bar where the local Alabama Alumni association convenes to watch
football games–there was a game last night. The three women named Ann
(or Anne) and I had no interest in that, so we decided to go get dinner.
Ann Jones's brother had recommended
Lupa, so we decided to go there, and if
we had to wait, well, there are worse ways to pass the time than walking
around the Village.
Indeed, we didn't even get seated until after 10pm.
Dinner was wonderful. To start we had a nice escarole and onion salad, a
cold squash soup and the absolute stomp-down best thing in a night that
had a lot of really good food, a salad of beets and pistachios with a
creme fraisch sort of dressing.
I don't care if you don't like beets, this is not to be missed.
After that we had a tuna belly (think skirt steak) with a
puttanesca-style dressing, a striped bass that was crusted with
something and pan fried, a "minute steak" (beaten skirt steak) that
enclosed braised radiccio and arugula and other things, and a fish the
name of which I forget that was served whole, battered and fried (and
was presented on the plate as if it were swimming through the water.
It was all amazing. If we hadn't gotten beers while we were walking
around, we probably would have had dessert. It did look quite wonderful,
but no one had the wherewithall to handle it.
Having mentioned the menu, it should come as no surprise that picking a
wine to go with all of those dishes is a little hard. And the wine list
is all Italian, and the only Italian wines I knew about are Chiantis and
Moscatos, neither of which really applied here.
So we asked for recommendations, and our waitress referred us to Zack,
who we assume is the sommelier despite the fact that his sense of
appropriate work dress and facial heair is apparently about the same as
mine. He was impressed by our dilemma–and in fact ended up suggesting a
bottle of A Maccia Pigato for the three people with fish and a glass
of red for Ann Jones's beef.
I really liked the Pigato–it's a very crisp and cool white, not very
acid or oakey, and it cut through the saltiness of the puttanesca that
came with my fish very well.
He was even more impressed, though, that I was sitting at a table with
three attractive women all named Anne. And he misremembered my name as
Steve at one point, which became something of a running joke.
It was a lot of fun, and, frankly, pretty goddamn reasonable considering
the quality.
(Perhaps some day I will declaim about how I much prefer hanging out
with women than men. The short version is that they're infinitely more
willing to listen to me yammer incessantly and drunkenly about myself.)
Finally, some time early, early this morning, we got back to the hotel
and got to sleep.
Getting the Hell out of Dodge
So we got up at 9:30, in time to see everyone off to another day of the
U.S. Open, including some Serena Williams action. We, however, needed to
kill a few hours and then catch our planes.
We packed up, checked out and decided to go look at the Met. When we got
to the Met, though, we discovered that they will not allow you in with
any luggage, and they have no place to hold it. So we moved on, and
walked along Central Park for a bit, and then went and sat near a pond
where people were playing with their radio-controlled boats and talked
and enjoyed the 70 degree weather.
Then we adjourned to One c.s.p, the bistro in the Plaza Hotel, where we
had a lovely lunch of a mixed greens salad, some sun-dried tomato and
ricotta ravioli and some quite wonderful onion soup that was topped with
puff-pastry and gruyere melted onto it–a great variation on the
traditional French onion soup.
And then we caught a cab to the airport.